P. and I drive out to ugly, tangled industrial section of Verona, called Borgo Roma, to pick up a box from the States. DON'T EVER SEND A BOX HERE REGULAR MAIL. They charge a 53 Euro dogana [customs] fee, even for a small box. Mom sends X-mas presents – oil paint brushes, books and for me a poignant 2006 Packers calendar, put together before the miserable results of 2005/2006 were in- there it is printed on the back page, the soon to be miserable season…now begins the long twilight?

That night, L. and I drive to a town called Colà, just a little ways down the Corso Milano, where they have an awesome 8-acre hot springs park called the Parco Termale del Garda. Reminds L. of childhood experiences in Germany, indeed the changing room signs are written in Italian and German only. Steam and lights are moody and beautiful, cypresses rise in silhouette all around us. The warmest areas of the springs have been sectioned off like hot tubs and couples are smooching in the dark corners. There is a grotto, not so large as it appears in the pamphlet but fun to explore. It's like the coolest night-time pool party ever. The giant bathing area has a floor of tiny, clean white pebbles. The swim makes us ravenous and we have delicious pizza at a trattoria across the street from the park.