We get off the bus at Via Argentina where the Roman Senate used to meet more than 2000 years ago and where, in 44 BC, Julius Caesar was knifed. You can look right down on the spot where it happened, now criss-crossed by stray cats and strewn with trash. The Romans have a litter problem!

We are finally able to get into the Pantheon, L.’s favorite place ever when she visited Rome as a nine year old kid. A noble, mystical space! We gaze at the play of natural light on the perfect forms of the coffered ceiling. The weathered bronze doors and columns are of Titanic scale. The whole thing was constructed beneath a great mound of Earth which served to support the evolving structure and from which the finished temple was dug out, an awe-inspiring statement of religious and civic ambition. Raphael is buried here as is Victor Emanuel, first king of unified Italy. We briefly visit San Agostino where there is another tall, dark photo-real Caravaggio. Today, apparently, is a celebration day for this particular saint so we are brusquely ushered out. Next, to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva with Bernini’s elephant obelisk, the Lippi freschi, the tomb of Saint Catherine of Sienna, after whom L.’s grandma Spera was named, and the unfinished Michelangelo Christ statue (the master himself did not sculpt the head, which is obvious at first glance).

We have lunch next to Hadrian’s Temple, with its long, columned façade. We view and photograph the Pié di Marmo, a colossal, sandalled Roman foot carved of marble, set on a pedestal in an unassuming side street just like our “Pigna” here in Verona. We walk to Piazza del Popolo, with its twin chiese, view the Trevi Fountain at daytime, so cheerful with all that running water and the grand stone figures bursting from the very face of the building they adorn. Puts you in a good mood.

Beer in a cup from a thoroughly American bar on the Campo dei Fiori (the bartender even says “two dollars” instead of “euros” when he quotes us the price). We drink our beer on the long stone bench of Piazza Farnese as the light fades and the lamplight rises. Back to our ‘hood for an excellent cena at a nearby restaurant recommended by i padroni of our rental called “Il Forno Vecchio.” The place is located on a most unscenic street far off the tourist path. They offer a buffet of excellent antipasti, L. has a perfectly broiled whole fish and I try the Roman-style pizza which is thin and crisp as a cracker.